Exploring Albania: The Real Story Behind the Beauty
FAQs
What language do they speak in Albania?
Albanian is the official language, but English is widely spoken in tourist areas. Italian also seemed to be a common second language, especially the further south you go.
What currency do they use in Albania?
The official currency is the Albanian lek (ALL). Credit/Debit cards are accepted in major establishments, but cash is preferred in most places.
Is it safe to travel in Albania?
Albania is generally safe for tourists, but exercise caution in crowded areas and be aware of petty theft. The roads can be chaotic, so drive carefully.
Does Albania have good public transport?
Public transportation includes buses and minibuses, but renting a car offers more flexibility for exploring remote regions.
Will you European Sim work in Albania?
Your European SIM card will work, but it will be expensive in Albania. We recommend buying a local SIM card at the airport for affordable mobile data and connectivity.
What is the main religion in Albania?
Albania has a diverse religious landscape, with Islam, Christianity, and other faiths coexisting harmoniously. Respect for cultural customs and traditions is appreciated.
What to expect when visiting Albania
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Construction is going on Everywhere. Many places, including tourist spots, will have construction going on. You might find yourself sitting in a beach club next to a construction site.
- Albania is overcrowded and Busy – especially in the south. Many Albanians from the north visit the beaches of Sarandë and Ksamil for their own summer holidays.
- Crazy Roads and Wild Drivers. If you plan on renting a car in Albania, ensure you have a confident driver. The roads can be unpredictable, and drivers are often reckless.
- Google Maps Isn’t Accurate. Google Maps may lead you down dirt paths or fail to recognize existing roads. As of July 2023, it was not up-to-date with Albania’s infrastructure, which can result in getting stuck in tricky situations.
- Ksamil: Expectations vs. Reality. Ksamil doesn’t quite look like the pictures – unless you arrive at the crack of dawn. The beach beds are crowded together, and beach clubs can be expensive. Those hanging baskets you see on Instagram? Expect to pay between €40-€70, and upwards of €100 for a bed with curtains.
- Private Beaches in Albania are common. Many of the beaches in Albania are private and will charge you for loungers and umbrellas. Setting up your own towel isn’t really an option, particularly on many beaches in Sarandë and Ksamil.
Visa requirements for Albania
Do you need a Visa to visit Albania?
General Guidelines
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- Albania offers visa-free entry to citizens of several countries. If you’re a passport holder from the European Union, the United States, Canada, Australia, the United Kingdom, or many other countries, you can enter Albania without a visa for short stays. Typically, this means you can stay in Albania for up to 90 days within a 180-day period.
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- If you are not from one of the visa-exempt countries, you will need to apply for a visa before travelling to Albania. This includes providing necessary documentation, such as a valid passport, a completed visa application form, a recent passport-size photo, proof of accommodation, and evidence of sufficient funds for your stay. Additional documents might be required depending on the purpose of your visit, such as a letter of invitation for business trips or proof of enrollment for students.
The Roads in Albania might be wild but the views are unmatched
When is the best time to visit Albania?
The ideal time to visit Albania is during the shoulder seasons—May and September. During these months, you’ll enjoy pleasant weather, fewer crowds, and lower prices.
Avoid the Peak Season!
We visited in July and found it extremely hot and crowded with tourists. Prices were also significantly higher, making it a less comfortable experience.
How expensive is Albania?
Contrary to popular belief, Albania is not “dirt cheap.” Prices in tourist hotspots can be similar to those in other European destinations like Spain or France. While smaller towns may be more affordable, the most popular areas often come with higher costs. Despite this, Albania remains a more budget-friendly destination compared to many other European holiday spots.
Travelling in the shoulder season, you can expect to pay:
Mid-Range Hotels: €50-€60 per night for a comfortable hotel with good amenities.
Luxury Hotels: €70 – €120 per night for high-end hotels and resorts.
Local Restaurants: €5-€10 for a meal at a traditional restaurant, including local dishes like tavë kosi (baked lamb and yogurt) or fresh seafood.
Mid-Range Restaurants: €20-€30 for a three-course meal for two.
Coffee and Drinks: €2-€3 for a coffee, €2-€4 for a beer, and €3-€5 for a glass of wine.
Car Rentals: Around €20 -€60 per day, depending on the vehicle and rental company.
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- We paid just under €650 for a car for 11 nights (that was with full coverage insurance and an additional driver) and this was the best price we could get in July.
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Costs start to add up when you factor in the price of petrol driving from place to place and also that on most beaches you’ll need to rent beds and umbrellas (if they aren’t included!)
In smaller towns, you’ll find cheaper prices, but these may not be the places you’re visiting if you’re sticking to popular tourist areas.
Is Albania a good destination for Solo female travellers?
How to get to Albania
Getting to Albania by Air
The primary entry point for international travellers is Tirana International Airport (TIA), also known as Nënë Tereza Airport, located about 17 kilometers northwest of the capital, Tirana.
The airport serves numerous international airlines with direct flights from major European cities such as London, Rome, Munich, and Istanbul. Budget airlines like Wizz Air also offer affordable flights from various European locations.
From the airport, you can take a taxi or a bus to the city center. The airport bus, called Rinas Express, runs regularly and is a cost-effective option.
Getting the ferry to Albania
Albania has several ports that connect it to neighbouring countries via the Adriatic and Ionian Seas. The most popular ferry routes are Italy to Albania and Greece to Albania
Travel Tips: Ferry services are more frequent during the summer months, so check the schedules in advance. Arrive at the port early to avoid any last-minute hassles, especially during peak season.
Getting to Albania on Land
If you’re driving your own car, you can enter Albania easily via Greece, Montenegro, North Macedonia, or Kosovo.
If you choose to come to Albania by bus, several international bus services connect Albania to neighbouring countries and beyond.
Popular European bus company, Flixbus, provides services from nearby countries such as Croatia and Greece – although they are quite pricey and seem to book up very early in advance.
Getting around Albania
By Furgon
One of the most popular and authentic ways to travel in Albania is by furgon, a privately-owned minibus. These vehicles, although not licensed, offer a unique Albanian experience, often travelling to smaller villages and popular routes like Saranda to Gjirokastër and Berat. While furgons can be crowded, especially in high season, they provide flexibility, allowing passengers to be dropped off anywhere along the route.
By Bus
For longer and popular routes like Saranda to Tirana, buses are a common choice, albeit with their own quirks. Sharing space with household items is not uncommon, and buses may also serve as delivery services. Like furgons, buses can accommodate hitchhikers if space permits. However, travellers should verify schedules at the station or with accommodations, as they serve as guidelines rather than strict timetables.
Renting a Car in Albania
Renting a car in southern Albania is an excellent way to explore the region’s stunning coastline and hidden gems at your own pace. Albania has three formal highways, so while the main roads like the SH8 along the Albanian Riviera are well-maintained and scenic, you might find yourself doubling back a few times due to limited route options.
Fortunately, there are no toll fees on Albania roads, making road trips more affordable. While most roads are in good condition, be prepared for winding mountain drives and occasional rough patches on smaller, local routes.
Having a car offers the freedom to discover secluded beaches and off-the-beaten-path villages.
Where to go in Albania
There are so many beautiful places to explore in Albania. We’ll focus on the South on Albania here.
For a full 10 day Itinirary see here: 10 days in the Albanian Riviera
Saranda
Saranda is the most popular beach destination in Albania, located on the Ionian Sea. It’s known for its lively atmosphere, stunning beaches, and proximity to historical sites. We recommend basing yourself here for 5-7 nights and taking trips to Ksamil, The Blue eye and Gjirokaster
Highlights:
- Ksamil Islands: A group of small islands with crystal-clear waters and sandy beaches, perfect for swimming and sunbathing.
- Butrint National Park: A UNESCO World Heritage site with ancient ruins, just a short drive from Saranda.
- Lëkurësi Castle: Offers panoramic views of the city and the sea.
Pros: Vibrant nightlife, numerous dining options, and beautiful beaches.
Cons: Can be crowded and more expensive during peak season. Parking is also a nightmare.
Is it better to stay in Sarande or Ksamil?
We stayed in Sarande and drove to Ksamil a few of the days. Sarande was a central location and it felt less crowded during the day. It also has a strip with lots of restaurants and bars. For convenience sake, we would recommend staying in Sarande.
Where to stay in Sarande?
We stayed in Enia’s room and for the price, it’s pretty unbeatable. The room was fairly basic and there was no frills but it was located just a ten minute walk to the main strip of Sarande and considering we were driving elsewhere most of the time, we didn’t mind.
If you’re looking for something a bit more fancy check out: MeraViglia Boutie Hotel, Sarande
Himare
Himare is a small town located on the Ionian coast, known for its beautiful beaches and relaxed vibe.
Highlights:
- Livadi Beach: A large beach with a mix of sand and pebbles, popular with families and campers.
- Jale Beach: A vibrant beach with clear waters, beach bars, and water sports facilities.
- Porto Palermo: A historical site with a castle and a beautiful bay, perfect for a day trip.
Pros: Relaxed atmosphere, beautiful beaches, and historical sites nearby.
Cons: Not much of a nightlife here and a bit further removed from the rest of things.
Where to stay in Himare?
If you want to completely relax for a few days, we recommend staying in Dimitri Hotel in Himare. The hotel is absolutely stunning. The hotel itself is across from a restaurant where you have breakfast which is included and there’s an option to dine there for lunch and dinner. Your stay gives you access to the beach across the way with beds and umbrellas and the sea is amazing. There’s a car park out the back to park rental cars and a small grocery around the corner.
Dhermi/Vlorë
Vlorë and Dhërmi are two of Albania’s coastal gems, offering stunning beaches along the Albanian Riviera.
- Dhërmi Beach: A long stretch of pebble beach with crystal-clear waters, perfect for swimming and water sports.
- Drymades Beach: Known for its scenic beauty, offering a mix of pebbles and sand, with a more relaxed atmosphere.
- Canyon of Gjipe: A secluded beach accessible via a hike or boat, ideal for those seeking tranquility.
Pro: Both locations provide a mix of culture, history, and stunning natural beauty.
Con: Vlorë can feel crowded in the summer, while Dhërmi’s remoteness makes it harder to access without a car.
Where to stay in Vlore?
TOTO Boutique Hotel and Apartments provides a chic, comfortable stay in Vlorë, ideal for those looking to unwind. While the hotel is a bit removed from the main town, meaning you’ll need a car to explore beyond the few nearby spots, the peaceful location is part of its charm. A decent breakfast is included and there’s a pool on-site.
Berat
Berat, often called the “City of a Thousand Windows,” is famous for its white-washed Ottoman houses cascading down the hillside. It offers a perfect blend of history, culture, and natural beauty along the banks of the Osum River.
Highlights:
- Explore Berat Castle: Unlike most castles, Berat Castle is still inhabited, making it a unique experience. Wander through its ancient streets, visit small museums, and enjoy sweeping views of the city below.
- Wine tasting in Berat: Berat is famous for its wine. There are many local wineries offer tours and tastings – we recommend Cobo winery,
- LiLis homemade food: If there’s one piece of advice you take from us, It’s that you need to visit Lilis’ homemade food Berat – we won’t spoilt the experience for you but call lili about a week in advance to book (and go hungry!).
Pros: A truly authentic feeling Albania city with a slow relaxed feel to it.
Cons: There’s not loads to do
Where to Stay in Berat?
Olive B&B is a quaint little family run block of Rooms in a central location in Berat. A lovely homestyle breakfast was provided each morning.
Tirana
We didn’t spend much time in Tirana but it is a really interest capital city with lot’s of history. Definitely set aside a day or two to explore.
Highlights:
- Skanderbeg Square: The central square with significant landmarks like the National History Museum and Et’hem Bey Mosque.
- Blloku: A trendy district with cafes, restaurants, and nightlife.
- Dajti Mountain: Accessible via a cable car, offering panoramic views and outdoor activities.
Pros: Vibrant nightlife, cultural landmarks, and a variety of dining options.
Cons: Can be chaotic and noisy, with significant traffic congestion.
Where to stay in Tirana
For convenience, we booked a hotel near the airport in Tirana. It was nothing to write home about but did the job.
For something closer to the city check out La Voglia Boutique Hotel
Gjirokastër: The "City of Stone"
Known as the “City of Stone” due to its unique Ottoman-era architecture and stone houses, Gjirokastër is a living museum with a fascinating blend of history, culture, and scenic landscapes.
Highlights:
- Explore Gjirokastër Castle: Perched on a hilltop, this massive fortress offers panoramic views of the city and surrounding mountains. Inside, you’ll find a collection of military artifacts and an intriguing Cold War-era underground bunker.
- Visit the Skenduli House: One of the best-preserved Ottoman-era houses, offering a glimpse into life centuries ago with its authentic decor, architecture, and informative tours.
- Stroll Through the Old Bazaar: A charming marketplace filled with local crafts, souvenirs, and traditional Albanian goods. It’s a perfect spot to experience local culture and cuisine.
Pros: Rich historical and cultural experiences which offer something a little different to your Albanian roadtrip.
Cons: Limited public transportation options and a bit of a drive away from the coast so if limited on time, might not be worth it.
Our Honest Conclusions
Contrary to common stereotypes, we found the people of Albania incredibly welcoming. Locals were eager to help, and their hospitality made the experience so much more enjoyable. However, the roads can be quite treacherous, especially in the south. Our biggest tip is to please be careful on the roads. Albania’s infrastructure is improving, but it’s not uncommon to encounter winding mountain paths with sharp turns, steep drops, and a few potholes.
We spent 12 days exploring the south and absolutely loved it. Despite the occasional challenge, we’ll definitely be returning to discover the north. From what we’ve heard from fellow travelers and locals, the northern part of Albania offers just as much—if not more—in terms of beauty and adventure. It’s now high on our travel bucket list, and we can’t wait to go back!
